<VV> New Garage - Lighting

[dcvjrv at comcast.net]

Rad,

I plan on covering the floor with an epoxy paint of some sort as soon 
as it cures.
The walls will be covered with sheetrock for the first four feet, the 
plywood for the
next four feet, and finally the rest will again be sheetrock.  At 
least that is the current
planning.  The walls will be painted white.

I think that I am going to go with the high-index fluorescent.  The 
extra expense
will be well worth it.  The only question that remains with the 
lights, is how many
and where to place them.

Thanks for the input,
Jim V.

At 11:56 PM 10/22/2005 Saturday, Rad Davis wrote:

>I'd add that it's a lot easier to get light on the floor and under 
>the vehicle if you have a more reflective floor.
>
>Fresh concrete has a pretty good albedo.  Unfortunately, if you 
>actually use the garage, the floor will get darker and darker over 
>time.  Consider putting down a white or light grey floor epoxy over 
>the work areas.  Not only will this prevent oil stains, dirt, and 
>tire rubber darkening the floor over time, it will also reflect more 
>light from the surrounding area under the car.  It's never easier to 
>paint a floor than just after it has cured--there will be no 
>soaked-in oil to cause the paint to spall.
>
>Likewise, a coat of white primer on the sheetrock around the cars is 
>very helpful with getting light where you're working.
>
>I agree completely with Kent about getting some high-index 
>fluorescents.  You get a lot of eye fatigue from cool white flouros, 
>and even more from mercury vapor and sodium.  If you're feeling 
>really poor, you can mix soft white and cool white fluorescent tubes 
>in the same fixture.  It looks odd, but throws a more balanced 
>light.  The high-index tubes are my choice, though, and they're not 
>so much more expensive that you'll break the bank on them.
>
>At 08:14 PM 10/22/2005 -0700, Kent Sullivan wrote:
>>It's hard to do better all-around than good quality, modern fluorescent
>>tubes that have a high Color Rendering Index (low 90s tends to be pretty
>>true without the premium cost of getting still closer to 100). Mercury vapor
>>and other kinds of specialty lights have some supposed advantages but they
>>also have some big downsides, such as cost, amount of light output variance
>>over the life of the bulb, and startup time. By output variance I mean that
>>some bulb types start out really bright but their output curves down for
>>quite some time before the bulb blows, whereas fluorescents tend to have
>>about the same output until the die.
>>
>>Be sure you work with someone who knows how to lay out lighting properly.
>>You should have about 100 candles/foot at the floor. You can go somewhat
>>brighter but you actually can get it too bright, which is just as bad as too
>>dim. Working with someone who knows their stuff will also help with fixture
>>placement to help ensure that you minimize shadows--something you definitely
>>want to avoid.
>>
>>--Kent
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org
>>[mailto:virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org] On Behalf Of dcvjrv at comcast.net
>>Sent: Saturday, October 22, 2005 7:49 PM
>>To: Virtual Vairs
>>Subject: <VV> New Garage - Lighting
>>
>>I am in the process of building a garage to store and work on my vehicles.
>>I will be 50' x 64' with 13' from floor to bottom of trusses and will be
>>clear span.  I am looking for comments and recommendations as to the best
>>lighting to install.  I want to keep the lights even with the bottom of the
>>trusses.  The walls will be drywalled (sheet rocked) and the ceiling will be
>>left open.
>>
>>Thanks for any and all comments and recommendations.
>>
>>
>>Jim V.
>>1964 Chevrolet Corvair Spyder Convertible
>>http://www.angelfire.com/mi2/jrvvehicles
>>dcvjrv at comcast.net
>>
>>
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