<VV> Re: bad studs

[djtcz at comcast.net]

> 
> Message-ID: <00c801c56c78$323c11c0$11069b04 at corsa> 
> 
> Oye; the worst case. my ONLY success with exhaust studs is to get the log 
> ears as red as possible with a torch, and attempt to wiggle the stud (either 
> double nutted, or vice gripped), until it wants to thread out. 
> Success rate is no better than 25%. 
> 
>

I like to think its helpful to whack the stud like a nail with a hammer, especially if starting down the solven remopval path. 

Oxy acetylene always wins, one way or another.
Ignore the manfold.  Heat the stud from at least an inch away, preferably until the end in the mani is glowing visibly.  Let the stud cool to dull red and grab it with 2 pairs of pre-set vice grips.  Listen to it cry as it while you easily twist it lefty loosey.  When turning resistance increases, and the cry is higher pitched, remove the vice grips, and re-heat. 

If the stud is busted flush, heat the stud red.  Then, after things cool off, soak with PB Blaster and use a 1/4 inch punch to semi-whack the stud like a nail with a hammer a few times.  Then, and only if capable of drilling a well centered hole, drill a 3/16 inch plus hole through for a dreaded EZ out.  (note, at this point if I had used the cutting torch to blast out the stud I'd be chasing the original threads out of the mani )  .  After fiving the PB at least ab hour to work some magic I's use an EZ out to timidly attempt to unwind the stud shell