<VV> Floor Pans
J R Read_HML
hmlinc at sbcglobal.net
Wed Jun 1 14:04:01 EDT 2005
Next time you are in the vicinity of a school bus, take a close look.
Emergency door at rear and various other panels are attached with rivets.
They appear to be pop rivets.
Attachments (if any) are scanned with anti-virus software.
Later, JR
'61 Rampside Standard 4/110
'65 Monza Convertible 4/140 (times 2)
'66 beater Coupe - icemobile 4/140
----- Original Message -----
From: "Duane, Jim" <Jim.Duane at it.BAESystems.com>
To: "bob mccrum" <bmccrum at comcast.net>; <virtualvairs at corvair.org>;
<vairologist at juno.com>
Cc: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 6:55 AM
Subject: RE: <VV> Floor Pans
>
> Rivet. 1" overlap. PC-7 epoxy in seams. Stainless Steel rivets.
>
> Waterproof. Strong. Rustproof.
>
> Jim Duane
> '66 180 Corsa CVT
> Colonial Corvairs
> CORSA
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org
> [mailto:virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org] On Behalf Of bob mccrum
> Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 1:01 AM
> To: virtualvairs at corvair.org; vairologist at juno.com
> Cc: virtualvairs at corvair.org
> Subject: Re: <VV> Floor Pans
>
> I agree with Smitty. Properly riveted floor pans should be equally as
> strong as the original floors. Please note: I said properly riveted.
> Properly riveted is drilling the properly sized holes, used the correct
> rivets (shear or tension), and using a rivet gun and bucking bar. Pop
> rivets aren't rivets at all, but merely a device to clamp pieced
> together until the pieces can be fastened correctly. bob mc (current
> sheet metal aviation).
> thanks for the bandwidth.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <vairologist at juno.com>
> To: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> Cc: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 1:05 AM
> Subject: <VV> Floor Pans
>
>
>>
>>
>> > From: <mhicks130 at cox.net>
>> > Subject: Re: <VV> re;floor patch
>> > I can't believe that anyone who is really worried about crash safety
>> > is driving around in a 40 year old car. The cars of today are so
>> > much safer in so many ways - no matter how heavy the old ones are.
>> > If I get hit hard enough to start crumpling floors in my convertible
>> > with or without welded in floor panels I'm in world of hurt.
>> > Panels that are properly riveted and with structural adhesive can't
>> > be that much weeker than welded in panels. I suppose it's OK to try
>> > to maximize your car's ability to stay intact in an accident but if
>> > safety is your main concern you should be in a different vehicle.
>> ------------------------------------
>> Smitty says: You are entitled to your "Can't Believe" and welcome to
> it
>> Mike, but you are wrong. Me? I will have my floors welded in and
> with
>> doublers installed at the seat and belt mounting points. Improperly
>> welded in floor panels do not have the capability of resisting the
>> diamond stress on the floor pan in a collision. Seats rely on the
>> strength of the floor to stay in place. As an old aircraft structures
>> mechanic I disagree with your term "properly riveted". There is no
>> "properly riveted when putting a steel panel in place with pop rivets
>> spaced an inch apart. When you speak of using adhesive you do realize
>> the it must be applied on bare clean steel and not on top of POR-15 or
>> Rustolium or any other paint of choice. Otherwise its bonding
> strength
>> is no better than the paint it is stuck to. How many rusted out
> floors
>> do you think have had their edges cleaned to bare clean steel before
>> being repaired? (if that is what you call a pop riveted, glued in
>> floor). It ought to be obvious that safety is not the main concern of
>> any of us. otherwise we would be riding around in a main battle tank
>> with a 30 hp motor and a 6 point racing harness.
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