<VV> RE: Base Vent

[kovacsmj]

-----Original Message-----
From: kovacsmj [mailto:kovacsmj at sbcglobal.net] 
Sent: Monday, July 04, 2005 12:17 PM
To: 'gyoungwolf at earthlink.net'
Subject: RE: <VV> RE: Base Vent

 Sounds like you nailed my problem on the carb. When I choked it with my
hand it made a LOUD sucking sound. I've played with carbs for many years
and I immediately stuck my stethoscope next to the vent valve and is
could hear it sucking. The crack in the rubber actually had a piece torn
off, so it did not completely cover the vent hole. The engine was at a
high idle, so the hole should have been completely covered. The repair
was simple. It is always best to be sure the vent valve is soft and
flexible. It appears that it should "float" a little in the spring arm
to assure sealing the vent hole.

 I'm sure the other contributors to this thread appreciate your input.

Getting all the information is most of the solution.
 
MIKE KOVACS
 

-----Original Message-----
From: virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org
[mailto:virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org] On Behalf Of grant young
Sent: Sunday, July 03, 2005 9:26 PM
To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Subject: <VV> RE: Base Vent
...If the vent is allowed to stay open more than a crack it will wreak
havoc with your adjustment efforts. If it is missing, your carb just
isn't going work right - you can probably guess how I know this.... :-).
While I have never encountered a cracked one, I find many that are
hardened, stuck shut, or bent open... 

...A better adjustment technique is to set it while you are looking at
it work in order to determine how much "flex" is in the arm of the
spring. If it is weak, it might not open at all, and if it bent less
than 90-deg, it will probably open too far. Most importantly, this
setting has to be made after adjusting the fast idle setting with the
speed screw and throttle lever, or it will be for naught..
The Carbmeister