<VV> So, um (Swell thread description, eh?)

[NicolCS at aol.com]

Ryan: I'm sure you have this all figured out by now, but here's a summary  
and a clearer description of installing the baffles.
 
Lower shrouds - you can run without them in very hot weather and it can  
reduce engine temps in these conditions.  In regular weather, it's better  for the 
engine (faster warm-up, more stable engine temps) to run the lower  shrouds 
and thermostats.
 
Cylinder baffles - needed for even temperature around each cylinder under  
all conditions.
 
Cylinder baffles can be installed without completely untorquing the head,  
though the descriptions on VV haven't been too clear and the only reason to do  
this is to stay away from loosening the upper head studs which can easily  
unscrew from the block (a bad thing).  Here's how to install a baffle  without 
untorquing the whole head.
 
On one cylinder, remove rocker arms, studs, guide plates, pushrods, and  
tubes, then reinstall and torque the studs to 30#.  Repeat on a second  cylinder. 
On the third cylinder remove rocker arms, studs, guide plates,  pushrods, and 
tubes, install the baffle, then reinstall all components and  torque the studs 
for that cylinder to 30#.  Then, one cylinder at a  time, go back to the 
other cylinders and untorque the studs, reinstall  components, and torque the 
studs to 30#.  At the end, you will have to  adjust the valves using your favorite 
method.  
 
During the procedure, there are never more than two studs loosened at any  
time. Obviously, this takes more steps than simply untorquing the whole head,  
but it does avoid loosening of the upper studs.
Craig N.