<VV> spring compression

[BBRT]

One little thing that might help.  If you can back the spindle knuckle with 
another heavy hammer, when you hit the knuckle with a hvy hammer or hand 
sledge, it will pop off quicker. If you can hit both sides at once-on some 
cars you can, and IF you hit both sides at once, it pops free lickety-split 
(threw that in there for our Midwestern folks...) :>)

Chuck S
BBRT
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tony Underwood" <tonyu at roava.net>
To: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2005 3:22 PM
Subject: Re: <VV> spring compression


> At 06:47 hours 04/11/2005, Kirk Eck wrote:
>>I'm rebuilding the front end of my 66 vair. I have a
>>spring compressor but it is too big to remove the
>>front springs, it compresses it but not enough to
>>remove it .  What is the best way to remove the spring
>>without blowing a hole through my chest?  Is there a
>>smaller compressor or some other miracle device, I
>>looked through the service manual but didn't find
>>anything.
>
>
>
> In my experience, the hardest part about front spring change in a Vair is 
> getting the shocks off the suspension so you can free the spring.   I've 
> not used a spring compressor.   I take the shock off, loosen the reaction 
> strut and sway bar brackets and (with a jack under the control arm) loosen 
> the ball joint and then just lower the jack down carefully until it won't 
> go down any farther, then grab it and push it down more, which allows you 
> to simply reach in and yank the spring out with your free hand.   And yes, 
> it's done without a spring compressor, if you remove the ball joint, sway 
> bar and reaction strut brackets.   When the lower control arm arcs down, 
> it will go through the full length of the spring and release the tension 
> to the point that you can simply lift it out or push the control arm down 
> lower still and the spring will *fall* out.
>
> This only works if you do remove the sway bar brackets and strut rod to 
> let the control arm move unfettered.   Takes a few minutes, or about 5 
> times as long as wrestling the coil into a spring compressor and trying to 
> shoe-horn it out of the suspension only to find you still don't have room. 
> Depending on how sagged the original springs might be, there will be more 
> or less tension on the control arm as it's lowered once everything is cut 
> loose.   Normal care and attention will get the spring out with a minimum 
> of trouble and no spring compressor is required, particularly if you are 
> installing HD springs which will be a bit shorter than the originals in 
> any event.
>
> You can use a medium size hammer to shock the ball joint loose (leaving 
> the loosened nut on the joint stud to keep it  from flopping off if/when 
> it does come loose) by sharply wacking the side of the spindle boss which 
> will/should loosen the joint and allow the ball joint stud to fall out of 
> the spindle.   The ball joint stud nut won't come all the way off with the 
> steer arm in place; gets in the way of the nut as it unscrews upward, 
> meaning you have to lower the stud down and out of the spindle.  Don't 
> lose the nut, which will end up falling off and rolling halfway to Kansas. 
> Reverse the procedure when reinstalling everything.   (this also works for 
> tie rod ends etc)
>
>
> The ball joint itself might pose a problem.  About half of the ones I've 
> done will pop off with 5-6 sharp raps with the hammer on the spindle 
> boss...  and about half of them won't budge.   Do NOT hit the stud, ever. 
> You'll never get the nut off, or back on again if you mash up the stud. 
> Strike the spindle ball joint stud boss *only*... the boss is the part of 
> the spindle that the ball joint stud goes through.   If it's tighter than 
> all Hell, you may have to resort to the trusty pickle fork.   Don't worry 
> about the ball joint boot; replacements are available at Auto Zone (I'll 
> have the part number in a day, Seth) and in all likelihood the one on the 
> car is already decomposing.   Replace it when everything goes back 
> together while it's easy to get to.   Cheap.
>
> Simple common sense and careful wrenching will get the spring change done 
> in short order, no pain and no suffering and no sweat.   Be sure to look 
> *closely* at how the spring perches on the lower control arm, noting the 
> position of the end of the spring.   If the spring isn't seated correctly 
> on the control arm, it will bow when under tension  and arc out far enough 
> to rub on something, like the shock tower or the shock itself, makes a 
> squawking racket you will not appreciate.   It can't hurt to smear a 
> little grease on the ends of the springs to keep them from emitting those 
> errant little moans and squeaks until everything jounces a while and 
> settles in.
>
> I just did all this again last Saturday, no problems encountered.
>
>
>
> tony..
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