<VV> PG removal instructions

[Harry Yarnell]

No big deal, remove the 7/16" hex bolt, and pull it out.

Harry Yarnell
perryman garage and orphanage
perryman, MD
hyarnell1 at earthlink.net

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "kovacsmj" <kovacsmj at sbcglobal.net>
To: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2005 12:48 PM
Subject: <VV> PG removal instructions


> I'll be ready to remove the broken engine from my '66 4 door in a week
> or so. I read the instructions on removing the PG cable from the
> transmission, but it seems like I've read some warnings about removal
> and reinstallation of the cable. I would like some sage advice from VV
> about any pit falls.
>
>
>
>  I've removed and replaced many engines over the past 30 years, but
> never a PG. I only intend to clean the PG and perhaps replace the pan
> seal. It only had about 100K and was working fine with clear red fluid.
>
>
>
>  The engine going in is a rebuilt 140 out of a '65 Fitch. Rebuilt means
> all new bearings, turned and nitrated crank, new cam, remanufactured con
> rods with .020 forged pistons balanced within .2 gram, new valves,
> guides, springs etc.,  rocker arms, gadgets, seals, nuts, bolts. The
> heads were modified by Ed Sedman with a reduced comp ratio and octane
> cut pistons.  All the sheet metal has been cleaned, repaired and
> painted.
>
>
>
>  At the slow rate I work at, I'll be ready to fire it up in about a
> month.
>
>
>
> Getting all the information is most of the solution.
>
>
>
> MIKE KOVACS
>
>
>
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