<VV> VV More on Oil

Thu Apr 7 17:51:42 EDT 2005

My wife drives a 2000 VW Passat with a VR6 - 2.8L - 6 cyl motor.

It was a fleet car that came off a lease at 65,000 miles.  It seems that it
was run on regular oil for its life but always burned 3 quarts between 5000
mile change intervals.  I have spoken to one other owner with the same motor
and he also indicated that this 5 valve per cylinder motor has a thirst for
oil  / 1 qt every 1,500 miles.  This compares with my Taurus and a
previously owned Camry that used virtually no oil in 5,000 miles.

I made the change to Mobil 1 - 0W40 synthetic after purchasing the car (soon
to be 5W40 Truck & Suv Mobil 1) and it continued to use oil.  It now has
85,000 miles on the odometer. I run it with synthetic, (three changes in
20,000 miles). The oil consumption was the same initially. The oil
consumption during the last change dropped dramatically - 2,500 miles per
quart.  Not sure why, but at $ 5.00 / quart this is a good thing.

Just an interesting observation about a benefit of running synthetic oil
that I never expected or even understand.

It will be interesting to see if it continues to use less oil between
changes.

LATE POWER GLIDE SEDANS RULE

Corvair content....

If I had to pick an EM to represent our car at a prestigious show, it would
be a red 64 Spyder convert

I hope he brings home some hardware....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris" <joeaverage at earthlink.net>
To: "Tony Underwood" <tonyu at roava.net>; <virtualvairs at skiblack.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 11:53 AM
Subject: Re: <VV> VV Sleeping Lakewood

> Start using synthetic oil... Ain't cheap but every engine I've used it on
had black oil in a very short time. After 4-5 oil changes the oil stayed
clean. Still better than tearing the engine apart.
>
> Chris
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tony Underwood <tonyu at roava.net>
> Sent: Apr 5, 2005 4:06 PM
> To: virtualvairs at skiblack.com
> Subject: <VV> VV  Sleeping Lakewood
>
>
>
> The weather finally stopped raining, snowing, freezing, blowing gale force
> winds, and allowed me to actually assault the recently acquired Roman Red
> Lakewood that had been sitting since 1969-70.
>
>
> After rebuilding the carbs, replacing spark plugs (an adventure in itself
> since they appear to be the original spark plugs so you can imagine how
> stuck they were) the plug wires, and the entire distributor since half of
> it didn't work, the engine finally started and ran smoothly.   It quieted
> down after running a few minutes... and actually sounds pretty good.
>
>
> The inside of the engine is a mess.    When I pulled the distributor out,
> it was caked up with grey sludge... don't know what the previous owner was
> using for oil back in the '60s, but it must have been rotgut crap to leave
> this sort of plaque behind.   The crankcase won't be keeping *this* load
of
> Advance Store engine oil for very long...  it's gonna need changing after
a
> couple hours worth of running to see if I can flush some of this crud out
> along with it.    Rislone is gonna be my buddy for the next couple of oil
> changes for this engine... I can't leave this stuff inside it.   I'd hate
> to see what else is caked inside everything.
>
>
> I don't wanna have to pull this engine apart to clean it out.   Anybody
> know of anything that works well to flush out this sort of crud besides
the
> usual kerosene soak or running 5 gallons of lacquer thinner through it a
> dozen times?   Any sort of engine crud buster that works well, maybe an
> engine flush that actually does something except paper some manufacturer's
> pockets?
>
>
> This crud looks like it had lead in it...
>
> I knew somebody who "knew somebody" who said they once cleaned up an
engine
> crankcase by running the engine with a couple of gallons of kerosene in
the
> crankcase for a minute or two, cut with a couple of quarts of engine
> oil.    The kero was above the level of the crankshaft throws, which
> blasted kerosene all around the inside of the crankcase with a vengeance
> and "cleaned it up pretty  good".
>
>
> I do not wanna try this with an all original Lakewood engine with 58,000
> miles on it.    But I'd like to clean it up inside without having to tear
> it apart.   I have too much stuff apart already.
>
>
> I'm tempted to give it a cheap lacquer thinner soak... 5 gallons poured
> through it a few times etc.   Let it soak  overnight... and hope it
doesn't
> melt every gasket and seal in the engine...?     Or maybe I should stick
> with Rislone...?
>
>
> So:   Anybody have any preferences for a GOOD engine crankcase flush that
> actually works?   It's been a while since I saw an engine with crud like
> this.
>
>
>
> tony..
>
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