<VV> Ultimate Frustration (long)

[bob mccrum]

first, are the scratches deep enough to feel with your fingernail, if so,
repaint is probably the only option. if not, a good suggested product to use
is micro mesh kit. developed to take scratches out of aircraft plastic
windows.  has sanding sheets from 1500 to 12000 grits and all instructions
included. should be available at pilot shops at most general aviation
airports.  works great at taking scratches out of CD's too. bob mc
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "N. Joseph Potts" <pottsf@msn.com>
To: "Corvair List" <virtualvairs@skiblack.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2004 4:19 PM
Subject: <VV> Ultimate Frustration (long)


> This concerns restoring the paint finish of the half of my
> engine-compartment lid to which I foolishly applied an orbital waxer using
> No. 7 White Polishing Compound. It produced scratches in the paint that my
> most-strenuous efforts by hand (even using No. 7 Rubbing Compound) could
not
> obliterate.
>      So, I bought an electric (non-orbital, 1000~3000rpm) polishing
machine
> with an assortment of wool and foam bonnets, some 1500-grit sandpaper and
> some 2000-grit. I also bought some water to use with the sandpaper, and
some
> 3M Scratch Remover (liquid) to use with my polishing machine. This stuff
> advertises, "This product safely and effectively removes grade 1500 or
finer
> sanding scratches, medium oxidation, coarse swirl marks or water marks,
and
> leaves a fine finish."
>      I wet-sanded with the 1500, then again with the 2000 until the 1500
> scratches could not be seen. Then I applied the Scratch Remover, using the
> wool bonnet and what must be 1000~1800rpm (the speed of the polisher is
> adjustable). I CANNOT get those sanding scratches to disappear. The
> scratches are uniform (none especially bigger or deeper than any other),
and
> the pressure I used on the sandpaper when sanding was just about what the
> suction produced that developed between the paper and the paint.
>      I sanded only in one direction, just like it says to do, and I don't
> lay the polisher disk flat on the paint; I'd say there's about 30 degrees
> between the plane of the paint and the plane of the polisher disk. The
paint
> is about 5 years old and otherwise undamaged (not thin, nor oxidized). It
is
> NOT original Corvair/GM paint, and it is apparently not clearcoated (color
> comes up on the rag/bonnet, and has since before the unfortunate first
> incident recounted above). It's a modern paint, obviously ($$$), but I
can't
> say how hard it is, relative to other paints; only that it's fully cured.
>      What am I doing wrong? I've gone over the surface in question about a
> dozen times, and while the surface has gotten nice and shiney, I can STILL
> see the sanding scratches.
>
> Joe Potts
> Miami, Florida USA
> 1966 Corsa coupe 140hp 4-speed with A/C
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