<VV> Leak! Leak! Leak!
Dale Dewald
dkdewald@pasty.net
Sat, 23 Oct 2004 14:19:54 -0400
At 12:13 PM 10/21/04 -0400, Darrin Hartzler wrote:
>I have been lurking a bit since I last asked for advice...
<snip>
>I made the mistake of putting Amsoil synthetic gear lube in a
>trans/transaxle that had been sitting for several years (with nary a
>leak). Because the old gear lube was still there, I assumed that it would
>hold synthetic oil just fine.
>
>Wrong.
>
>I have expensive Amsoil all over my garage floor from a slow drip that
>seems to be coming from the edges of the yoke that holds the inner
>U-joints, though I have not put it up on jack stands yet to properly
>investigate.
The leak is from the yoke side seals.
>Here are my questions:
>
>1) Has anybody else had similar problems with synth gear lube on these
>transaxles?
I have had several differentials begin to leak from these seals after
sitting for a while (mineral oil too).
>2) Is there any possibility that going back to dino gear lube will
>staunch the flow of fluid?
Probably not.
>3) Is there any complication involved in going from synth to dino in such
>a case as this (other than the challenge of getting all the synth fluid
>out of the trans and transaxle)? Any tips on that as well? I am assuming
>I can use some variation on a siphon for this.
No, the Corvair transmission and differential typically work fine with
mineral based GL-4 fluid.
>4) Is there any chance that the seals that are leaking will magically make
>themselves whole by putting a few more miles on the current arrangement
>with the synth still there ( i.e. will they heat up/swell/rehydrate and
>seal)?
Not likely.
>...and, most importantly...
>5) Will they do so with dino gear lube or should I just go to plan B?
You "might" be successful with Valvoline's Max-Life differential
fluid--which I understand is a synthetic blend--but for that much trouble
it would be better to replace the seals. They are fairly cheap.
>Plan B is to cut to the chase and pull the tranny and re-seal the sides.
There is no need to remove the powertrain. Simply disconnect the inboard
axle U-joints and let the axles hang down. The yokes are splined into the
differential carrier and are only retained by a long bolt. Bend down the
locks and unbolt them. Make sure to use the proper size socket and careful
alignment when you tap the seals in.
>Of course, I will spend a couple of hours poking around this weekend to
>see exactly where the leak is and if it is just one side or both, but your
>experience and advice on this would be much appreciated.
If one side is leaking, the other is likely to start soon.
>Any help and/or experience much appreciated.
Ask away.
Dale Dewald
Hancock, (UP) MI