<VV> Resurrection

[N. Joseph Potts]

I'm now beginning to think thrown rod, or something milder, like a loose rod
end cap. These would cause oil pressure to fail.
     Towing is a GOOD idea. You DON'T want to drive this anymore until
fixed. You maximize the likelihood of getting off light, like removing the
top of the engine, finding the loose cap, taking it off, Plasti-Gaging it,
inspecting or replacing the bearing, putting the cap back on (possibly with
new nuts), reassembling, and driving happily ever after. I think you've got
a good chance at an outcome like this. Before doing this, disconnect your
oil-pressure switch and start the engine ONE more time. If the light comes
on, something's wrong with your generator (yay!). If it does not come on,
connect the oil-pressure switch and observe whether it comes on. There's NO
harm in actually replacing the oil-pressure switch, too, just to be sure.
Avoid being fooled by a chance thing like failure (shoting) of a switch -
it's worth the effort.
     Keep your fingers crossed. You're paying your Corvair dues aplenty, and
we all sympathize.

Joe Potts
Miami, Florida USA
1966 Corsa coupe 140hp 4-speed with A/C

-----Original Message-----
From: virtualvairs-admin@corvair.org
[mailto:virtualvairs-admin@corvair.org]On Behalf Of Stephen Upham
Sent: Saturday, November 06, 2004 2:38 PM
To: virtualvairs@corvair.org
Subject: <VV> Resurrection


	Well, I started the car and ran it about ten seconds to see if the
sound was still there from last night.  It was.  I took off the fan
belt turned the blower by hand.  It moved easily, seemed not to have
play in it, but did make a noise like grit in it as it turned.  I then
ran the car with the belt off.  The knocking is coming from the engine.
: ) !!  It sounds like metal hitting metal.  (Dropped valve seat?)
	Hoping for the best, I thought that maybe the lifters were not
pressurized.  I hooked up the belt and turned the car on again.  It
seemed to run ok (no noise) after about fifteen to twenty seconds.  The
noise went away at idle and up to about 1500-2000 rpm (guess).  After
that, the knocking noise started again.  I tried to incrementally
increase the rpm to see if it was just at that rpm and if, with time,
the noise would diminish and disappear.   It never did, every time I
increased the rpm using the cross-over connector, the noise returned.
I decided to let it idle for a while and try it again.
	While it was idling, it slowly petered out and died after about two
minutes.  I went to start it again.  It started but now the pressure
and temperature light did not go out (after five seconds).  Shit!  I
immediately turned it off.  The temperature gauge was at 270.  I waited
a minute and tried to start it again.  It started but again the
temp/press light would not go out.  Great!
	 It looks like I'll have to tow it back to Ken's house (thirty miles)
and possibly tear the whole thing down again and hope that nothing is
ruined internally.   I can't believe my luck.  I hear all the time
about people who buy a junker, make on the spot mechanical adjustments,
and drive the car for two or three years.  I've completely rebuilt my
engine using the very best of parts and had a top flight Corvair
mechanic help me to do the work, I drive it once, and now this.   I've
been looking forward to the day I could drive it home for the last year.

It looks like the Corvair gods are going to test my resolve and
resources at every turn.

There is no joy in Mudville.

Stephen Upham
Dallas, Texas
Corvairium II

Mid prod. #18732 -1965 Monza sedan 110 (now closer to 112)
Sierra Tan (originally, currently Copper) - Saddle, PG, A/C, original
AM/FM, clock, tint, oil bath air filter, vertical bumper guards, w/ 77K
(and holding)
(Back to group red after the maiden trip)