<VV> powerglide rebuilding questions

[Bill Hubbell]

Ken,

I have rebuilt several Powerglides myself.  It is really not very difficult 
at all, and you don't actually need any special tools - just need to know a 
few tricks to get around those areas where the shop manual call for special 
tools.  The most important thing is to get everything perfectly clean for 
assembly -- dirt is your enemy.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The first trick is for removing the front pump cover without using slide 
hammers.
This method was developed by Smitty Smith and was submitted to the 
Communiqui several years ago but for some reason was never published.

Step 1: remove all but two of the inner circle of bolts.  The two remaining 
bolts should be loosened slightly - enough to get a flat bladed screwdriver 
under the head (these two bolts should be as close to 180 degrees from each 
other as possible).

Step 2: Remove all of the outer circle of bolts EXCEPT for the two next to 
the remaining inner bolts.  Loosen these two remaining outer bolts about 
five or six turns.

Step 3: Take two flat bladed screw drivers and set their blades under the 
inner bolt heads and, using the outer bolts as fulcrums. pry up and the pump 
cover and pump will come up with no problem.

------------------------------------------------------------------

The second trick is for to removing the clutch drum and reverse piston 
spring retainers.  the shop manual calls for a press and special 3 pronged 
J-tools, but these are not necessary.  All you need are three bolts, nuts 
and washers, a piece of flat bar stock (I actually use a small steering 
wheel puller) and a work surface with a hole drilled in it.

Step 1:  Set the part (clutch drum or reverse piston) on the work surface 
centered over the hole.

Step 2: Insert two bolts into the outer holes of the steering wheel puller 
(if using bar stock you need to drill three holes in it), center the center 
hole of the puller over the part, align the bolts to press on the retainer 
ring, and secure them with nuts and washers.

Step 3: Insert the (longer) bolt through the center hole of the puller, 
part, and work surface, and attach nuts and washers.  Slowly tighten the 
center bolt until the retainer ring is depressed enough to remove the 
retainer snap ring.

Step 4: Loosen and remove the center bolt.

Insertion is the reverse of the above, going slowly to avoid misalignment.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

Bushings can be removed using a good bench vise and appropriate sized 
sockets, or you could also use bolts and nuts to press them in and out.

The biggest problem is the proper selection of the front selective thrust 
washer (page 6E-24 of the 61 shop manual).  There are way to do this besides 
using the special tool, and Bob Ballew explains how in his book "Powerglide 
Transmissions - more than you ever wanted to know" available from the 
Corvanatics chapter.  However, keep in mind that you can probably just reuse 
the washer already on your transmission as long as you are attaching it to 
the same differential it was originally mated to.

There are several articles in the Tech Guide about rebuilding and inspecting 
Powerglides, and these should be read along with the shop manual in order to 
do a good job.

Good Luck!

Bill Hubbell


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ken Wardlow" <kwardlow1@cox.net>

> Good evening all,
> I would like to ask if anyone has rebuilt a powerglide transmission,and if
> so how difficult a task it is for the do it yourselfer?