<VV> Ah ___K

[chris czepyha]

#2 that is the piece, but what is it called.

On Wed, 26 May 2004 09:39:21 -0400 jryall@juno.com writes:
> Item number 1, the broken bolt in the head:  these are usually co 
> corroded in place that they are almost impossible to remove without 
> using heat.  One of the best methods I've seen is to weld a nut onto 
> the broken bolt.  Welding gives the heat you need, and the nut 
> allows you to remove the piece from the head.  Cutting a slot is 
> doomed to fail, as the bolt is so badly stuck.  I've found that 
> 'easyouts' usually don't work under these conditions either.
> 
> Item number 2:  I think you are talking about breaking an ear off 
> the casting that mounts the generator, oil filter and idler pulley, 
> Right?  The best thing to do is replace it.  Clarks and other 
> suppliers have used parts and are reasonable in their prices.  If 
> you have ever thought about converting to an alternator, now is the 
> time to do it by replacing it with an alternator type mount.
> 
> John Ryall 
> 
> On Wed, 26 May 2004 09:13:57 -0400 chris czepyha <thegeek2@juno.com> 
> writes:
> > In removing stuff from the 63's engine bay I had the brilliant 
> idea,
> > never a good sign, to take the generator out.
> > 
> > In doing so I broke the bolt on the battery side bracket off.   
> > Right at
> > the head, so their is some of the bolt exposed. 
> >         Thinking of drilling it out.
> >         Notching it with a dremel so I can try the screwdriver 
> > method. 
> > Putting on penetrating oil, applying heat, praying and trying to
> > screwdriver it out.
> >         Anybody have a prefered method, and why.
> > 
> > Also place where the rear bolt connects on the pump side of the 
> > bracket
> > snapped off.  Any goops that will actually re-attach or am I going 
> 
> > to be
> > trying to buy a new piece.
> > 
> > Thanks to all for their assistance.
> >  
> >         
> > 
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