<VV> Clutch Problems in my FC (part III)
Larry Forman
Larry@Forman.net
Sun, 23 May 2004 10:03:28 -0700
Hi,
Here are some thoughts on clutches, many of which you might be already doing:
1. It is not good that the input shaft was too tight with the pilot
bushing. Something is wrong with that. Also, make sure your pilot bushing
is non-magnetic by checking with a magnet. Properly oil it by placing it
on your thumb and filling with oil, then pressing with one or more fingers
on the top until it "weeps oil". If the fit was that tight then that alone
could cause the pilot bushing to burn up or fry.
2. Check that the input shaft is straight by placing it on V blocks and
using a dial indicator as you rotate the shaft.
3. Remove the bell housing and place it on a flat surface and indicate the
top surface to see if it is compressed and no longer has parallel front and
rear mounting surfaces. This tip is in the Corsa Tech Guide.
4. If using the Vega style clutch disk, use the thin Otto Parts/Clarks
crankshaft/flywheel strengthening ring and NO washers under it. Make sure
you use the very thin headed special bolts for this. If you use the PG
bolts then the heads will be too high and they will rub as the clutch disk
starts to wear, possibly after a few thousand miles. Using washers under
those heads will do the same but it will be much worse if the heads
are thicker.
5. Use the proper ball mount, since Earlies and Lates are different.
6. Bob Helt's "Classic Corvair" book has some clutch and flywheel
measurements that seem to be no where else. Good reference info when
rebuilding and checking for clutch problems.
7. I like to use a long 2X4 board about four or more feet long with a hole
drilled close to the end. I slide this hole through the clutch pull rod
and use it to lever operate the clutch before mounting the power train. I
can measure the clutch activation distance to check for proper operation.
I agree that this problem is definitely solvable with the right parts.
HTH,
Larry Forman