<VV> New clutch giving me fits!

[NicolCS@aol.com]

Welcome the the "posting side" of the group, Dave!  
Your clutch problems are not unusual these days, unfortunately.  '64 and up 
use the same "bent finger" clutch design, so though it's possible that you have 
a wrong part in there, it's not likely unless someone sold you some wrong 
parts.  There is an issue out there where the disc is a bit too thick and this 
will cause the trouble you are having.  Another possibility is a warped 
pressure-plate diaphragm spring, or warped clutch center (Both of these can ve damaged 
during assembly).  New clutch discs can also be a little "fuzzy" and drag a 
bit.

In my experience, the design of the levers and cables provides "just barely" 
enough throw to fully operate the clutch.  Wear, stretch, machine work, 
bending, and reproduction parts don't make this any better.  Of my four LM Corvairs, 
I have been able to get three of them "happy".  They all started out like 
yours and with some fiddling (adjustment) including one EM don't have, I was able 
to get them going happily, except for the one.  

If you are convinced that your cable isn't "stretchy", and the cross-shaft 
lever isn't twisted, nothing is flexing, the parts are correct, and nothing got 
warped, I think you have two or three options.
1) Take the clutch out and inspect everything again.  Helt's book has a lot 
on this subject.
2) Temporarliy tighten up the clutch swivel so that there is no freeplay.  
This will cause your t/o bearing to spin all the time but it might survive long 
enough to flatten any "fuzz" that may be on the new disc.
3) Modify your cross-shaft lever and move the push-rod pivot-hole down a 
little bit. (I have NOT tried this, but this is where I'm headed with the one I 
have that won't release fully.
Good luck,
Craig Nicol

<snip> I can not get my 64,4sp with a 65, 140
hp, clutch adjusted properly.  This car has been a complete ground-up
rebuild; new clutch, throw out bearing, Dale fly-wheel, (major vendor
super kit) new cable and pulleys .If it was worn

I replaced it.  My theory is I want to do it right the first time and
have a reliable car for years to come. My problem is that no matter how
I adjust the clutch following the manual, it is never fully disengaged.
I have to shut the engine off and shift into gear.

Once rolling shifting is possible but not as easy as it should be.  I
replaced the shifter bushings and pins along with a quick shift kit. The
trans shifts easily with the clutch in and engine off <unsnip>