<VV> Re: Exhaust Manirold studs

[Woody Lawrence]

Hi Russ,
I'll tell you what has worked for me many times.  Many people may cringe at
this, but I figure that a manifold is junk unless you can successfully remove
a broken stud.  First you have to have enough stud to grab with vice grips.  I
usually put some penetrating oil or diesel fuel on the stud threads, letting
them soak overnight before trying this.  Clamp the manifold in a well secured
vice.  Adjust the vice grips so that they will clamp very tightly to the
broken stud but don't leave them on the stud yet.  I use the heat method, but
you need more heat than you can get from a propane torch.  I use an
oxy/acetylene torch to heat the manifold ear so that it is almost a uniform
cherry red.  Try to keep the heat on the ear, not on the stud.  Once heated to
a cherry red, clamp your vice grips onto the stud, then gently rock the stud
back and forth a bit to break it loose.  Once it starts turning in the
unscrewing direction, don't stop, keep turning it steadily until it is
removed.  The reason for leaving the vice grips off until the manifold is
heated is that, when you clamp the vice grips on, they will soak off heat from
the stud,  causing it to shrink a bit and helping to it break the bond between
it and the manifold.  Let the manifold cool naturally, don't try to speed the
cooling process.  You can then chase the threads with the proper tap it
necessary.  Once the studs are removed, I only use stainless steel studs
installed with anti-sieze compound.  This has worked for me many times and I
haven't cracked or broken any of the manifolds that I have tried it on.
Again, if it has a broken stud, I consider it junk unless you can remove the
broken piece, but it only works if you have enough stud to securely grab onto
with vice grips.  Good luck.

Woody Lawrence

63 8-door Greenbrier
64 Corvair 95 8-door Panel Van
65 Monza 4 door
65 Corsa Convertible