<VV> Ignition and Electrical Questions

[Sethracer@aol.com]

In a message dated 3/31/04 12:39:46 PM Pacific Standard Time, anil@anil.com 
writes:
The coil which is on the car now says Fire Ball on it. 
The distributor cap and rotor are fairly new and show no wear. The 
plug wires are from Seth and are in good shape. When I installed  the
electronic ignition I bypasses the resistor wire in the harness  so
that the coil and ignition get a full 12V.

Problem: 

The car starts fine, idles fine, has great power and throttle 
response. After I drive it for a number of miles (20 to 30) the car 
just quits. If I let it cool down for about 10 minutes it starts up 
fine and all is good till it warms up again and the sit and cool 
cycle starts again. I don't think this is vapor lock since I can  see
a stream of gas from the accelerator pumps even when the car  does
not want to start. Would this indicate a bad coil? I do not  know the
age of the coil. Should I have not run 12V to the coil and  ignition?
The coil is being controlled by a Chrysler HEI controller? Dale's conversion 
drops a Mag sender into the Corvair distributor. But there should be a box the 
takes the input pulse, and controls the coil. First, make sure what voltage 
this box needs to run reliability. I remember the old Chrysler system used a 
separate dropping resistor block (sort of like an old Spyder resistor block). 
Make sure it is wired per their recommendations. (It could be this box). The 
coil - as you mentioned - is the likely culpret. And the easiest way to check 
that is to swap in another coil. Just one that works on another car. See if the 
problem is EXACTLY the same. There are coils designed to run on 12 Volts. I 
really don't know about the FireBall coil. If it had a part number on it, you 
might be able to check it out. Also, the resistance of the coil determines the 
current load it passes. Check the Pertronix web site at www.pertronix.com. They 
have some coil descriptions, ohms ratings and suggestions. - Seth