<VV> How much wiggle?

[Rick & Janet Norris]

Jim, all,
Here's my take on it. When you start to replace one known bad item on our 40
something cars it's like the old plumbing in a house. If you disturb one
piece of it you will end up replacing all of it!
I have recently been working on my 69 vert. I installed a new quick steering
box from Flaming river and after a test drive discovered a bind in the
steering. It turned out to be a bad upper ball joint. I ordered four new
ones and during tear down to replace them discovered a really bad lower
A-arm bushing. All the bushing, etc. are original so I ordered all the rest
of the parts for a complete front end rebuild. I know from experience I
should have done this in the beginning but I thought I might get by without
doing so. Wrong!
The weather is supposed to be nice today so I'm ready for a road test and a
trip to the alignment shop. I;m curious to see how close I got it with a
hand level and some string. Hell, they built the Pyrimids that way...

Rick Norris

> Hi all,
>
> After repairing my sheared of u-joints on my '66 Corsa, the right rear
brake
> started grabbing like crazy.  I pulled the drum to take a look and all
> looked ok. No leaks or gook on the shoes or drum but I replaced the wheel
> cylinder to be on the safe side. I noticed that after remounting the wheel
> that there was a fair amount of play in the rear wheel bearing.  It runs
> quietly and turns very smoothly, but the wiggle has me concerned.  The
> manual says max .006" end play.  If you grab the tire and shake it, how
much
> movement is allowed.  After shearing the u-joints on both sides, I want to
> make sure that something else wasn't damaged in the process.
> On the left side, there seems to be even more wiggle at the tire and if
you
> really put your foot on it, you can move the top of the tire in about
> 1\2"-3\4".  I can see the rear spring move to so I'm thinking that some of
> the trailing arm and strut rod bushings may be shot.  Any words of wisdom
> from the group?
> Jim B.