<VV> Motorcycle ATV Lift

[larry@forman.net]

Hi Cecil,
Matt has it right.  He mentioned a block above the diff, I think he means a block below the sheetmetal and supported by a small bottle jack.
 That way you can adjust the tilt of the diff as you install the engine and it retains the diff from going up as you pull the engine. 
Personally, I always keep the front wheels on the ground and use a tranny jack from Harbor Freight rated at 450 lbs to provide any small
adjustment in angles, particularly as I raise the power train.  With the tranny jack, I can mate the front tranny cross member and leave the
rest down, helping to align the struts.  I like that at least two wheels are down and provide added safety.

Watch the dimensions on the wooden lifting cradle.  The idea is for the front to rear side boards to mount directly onto the ATV lifting
arms.  This dimension differs for various manufacturers of ATV lifts.  I like the ones with the widest lifting arms.  I bolt the wood cradle
to the lifting arms from below using the holes formerly retaining the lifting arm rubber pads that are removed.

You will find you can drop the engine easily.  Lift the rear of the car enough so that the engine dropped down will still exit the car.  If
you miss by a few inches you will only need to jack the rear of the car up until it clears to exit.

Dropping a Late engine is very easy and safe with the ATV lift.  Once down, you can move it around, fire it up on the ATV lift to check it
out for leaks, etc., roll into place and tp to install.

When bolting the wooden cradle, allow sufficient room for the harmonic balancer to clear the rear safety lock arm and rear of the ATV lift. 
I happened to get it right the first time, so it is not difficult.  If you miss, you can move and rebolt.
-- Larry  

On Thu, 18 Mar 2004 16:59:13 -0500, "Ewell Mills" wrote:
> I recently purchased an ATV Motorcycle lift from Harbor Freight.  I am fixing
> to build the Finch type rig per Tech Topics in Communiqui and I have a few
> questions for those who have used these.  I have some experience pulling
> engines using the old floor jack balancing act.  All the engines that I have
> pulled have had P/G Transmissions, and I have always  pulled the entire power
> train, not just the engine.  Previously I have left the front wheels on the
> ground and jacked up the rear of the car.  Would it be better to have the car
> on 4 jackstands and level, or should the rear be higher than the front, and if
> so how much higher?  Is it easier to just pull the engine than pulling the
> complete drive train?  I have always had a heck of a time getting the rear
> struts attached when I pull the complete unit.  If I pull the engine only, I
> would not have this to confront with. (Tips on VV lately suggests lowering the
> rear of the engine to connect the struts, which I have never done, so this
> would probably help).
> 
> Any and all suggestions from all who have a lot more experience than I would
> be appreciated. Thanks. Oh by the way, I am planning on replacing the heads,
> but would like to pull the engine anyway to replace some shrouds, clean up
> stuff etc.
> 
> Cecil Mills

Larry Forman