<VV> HELP (Saving a 4dr)

[Eric S. Eberhard]

Interesting perspective.  I divide it also into the same 3 zones plus one 
more that is MOST important.

I consider the interior to be more or less irrelevant because as the author 
said it is straight forward and fairly inexpensive.

I consider the mechanical on almost irrelevant as well.  The parts are 
readily available and the costs known.  An engine is actually the least of 
my worries because as stated, for 2500 you can have a new one.  I get more 
concerned in the mechanical area if it needs new rubber, has suspension 
problems, etc -- but even those are fairly quantifiable.

However -- BODY -- if it has rust I would run, not walk, away from 
it.  Anyone that want a 400 price-range car with no rust, email me, I find 
them all the time.  Not a month goes by without someone calling me about a 
Corvair.  I just had a guy call last month with a 65 500 Coupe, running, 
rust free.  His price was I had to come get it that day (no dollars).  I 
know of a guy with a 64 Spyder Coupe, rust free, rebuilt engine and turbo 
(not assembled) that I bet can be had for under 1000.  I know of a 62 
Spyder coupe "that was running 2 years ago when parked" without rust -- 
asking 1000, bet he would take 750.  Body work is expensive if there is 
rust, and you can NEVER fix it.  Look at cars for sale on ebay -- "restored 
5 years ago, some rust under this or that"  -- no matter what, it comes back.

The fourth area I look at is actually the most important --> is it original 
and complete?  Huge expenses can be incurred because someone did poor 
repairs in the past and lost original parts.  Even worse, it is often hard 
to tell how it should be with stuff missing, so it is hard to reconstruct 
the original mechanics.
Things like trim, moldings, and so forth can cost a fortune if you can find 
them.  A missing thermister - 75 bucks, hubcaps, 100 bucks a set, emblems, 
30 bucks each, and so forth.  The more that is missing, the bigger that 
number gets in a real hurry.

The wagon I just bought is almost perfect in appearance.  Suspension is 
perfect, brakes, etc.  The main seal leaks like a sieve and compression is 
low.  These are easy and straight forward to fix, and not too 
expensive.  Everything is there and correct so there is nothing bad I have 
to undo and nothing missing to find ... to me this is the ideal way to buy 
a car (unless it is really 100% perfect of course :-).

BTW -- 400 is not a bargain for a 4 door.  I got my 62 4 door Monza for 
300.  No rust.  100% original.  34,000 miles.  The seller could not get it 
to run and gave up after a few months of trying ... it had been sitting for 
6 years after his father died.  I had it running before I got home, while 
it was still on the trailer (I fooled with it on the trailer while putting 
diesel in my truck).  I have put 7,000 miles (trouble free) on it since 
then.  BUT, count on spending 1,000 or so for a car that has been sitting 
--> brake fluid, tires, shocks, gas tank, battery, carbs, ignition, hoses 
(like for wipers), and just other misc. stuff will all need attention.


At 09:21 AM 8/27/2004, NicolCS@aol.com wrote:
>Welcome!  Your desire to "save" a good Corvair from the crusher is laudable
>and you'll find that to be a common trait of Corvairists.  You didn't mention
>the year, transmisison, or condition of the car you are considering and that
>matters a little.
>
>I always evaluate a purchase by dividing the car into three "zones":
>Interior, mechanical, and body.  If only one zone is bad, that's a good 
>sign.  If two
>zones are bad, be careful.  If all three zones are bad, you might want to
>reconsider your plans.  In Corvairs, a good runnning engine is a 
>God-send.  You
>can easily spend $2500+ to get a good running engine.  Next is the 
>body.  While
>paint doesn't have to be real expensive (Range $300 to $5000), body work is
>pretty expensive just about anyway you go.  The interior is the least 
>expensive
>repair.  You can fix that up for about $1000 if you buy all new stuff and
>install it yourself.  If you do a little swapping an scrounging, you could 
>fix
>that up for a fraction of that.  If the motor is really good (stick shift 
>adds a
>gold star to the comment), you might consider tooling the 4dr around until 
>you
>find a nice 2dr body that needs a powertrain.  (I don't know where you are
>but..) In the west where I live, there is an ample supply of good cars 
>with dead
>powertrains.  Spending exactly the same money on a 2dr will return lots more
>of you investment than a 4dr would.
>Craig Nicol
>
><snip>In Corvairs, My name is Jason Cesana and I just sighned up for
>membership yesterday. Im
>thinking of saving a 4 door monza from the boneyard. the owner of the yard
>told me it runs great and needs brakes. The body is pretty decent with some
>rot throughs. I was wondering if it is to difficult to restore these cars. I
>have always wanted one and the selling price is 400.00 so its hard to pass
>up.<unsnip>
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Eric S. Eberhard
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