<VV> Oil pan gasket

[N. Joseph Potts]

With a stock oil pan, I've gotten poor results with a rubber gasket. I often
find the original (style) cork gasket re-usable. Straightening your oil pan
with a small hammer and maybe a drift is VERY effective in my experience.
     Speaking of my experience, I seem to find that, over time, either the
pan bolts work loose a bit, or the underlying gasket loses its "spring."
Either way, a policy that I find really keeps my driveway clean is to get
under the oil pan about once a year and retorque those pan bolts to spec
(100inlb on my 1966) and NO MORE. Merely retorquing seems to keep things
nice and clean, at least on the driveway, for LONG periods. I use NO sealer
of any kind on either surface.

Joe Potts
Miami, Florida USA
1966 Corsa coupe 140hp 4-speed with A/C

-----Original Message-----
From: virtualvairs-admin@corvair.org
[mailto:virtualvairs-admin@corvair.org]On Behalf Of
BEllison@bbafiberweb.com
Sent: Saturday, August 14, 2004 9:59 AM
To: virtualvairs@skiblack.com
Subject: <VV> Oil pan gasket


65 Monza Vert 140


Oil pan drain bolt was really torqued down.  Pan bolts weren't tight, but
the pan holes are all dimpled in, towards the block.  Got a decent leak
around the cam gear.  The block to bell housing gasket was not trimmed off,
and it cut into the cork oil pan gasket.

#1 I'm gonna trim the crankcase to bell housing gasket flush.

#2 I plan on pinging the oil pan holes from the inside, back out, as close
to flush as I can get - even can use a level if it will help.  If measured,
I'm sure it would be 1/16" or so.

#3 I've only got a rubber gasket to replace the cork.  That okay?  I seem to
remember the cork is okay for stock oil pan, but the rubber/paper is best
for aluminum.  Okay to put rubber on stock steel, or not?


Barry Ellison
Corsa SC