<VV> Unsolvable Clutch Problem in my FC

[NicolCS@aol.com]

Coupla comments:
1) In my understanding, lubing the pilot bushingwith grease is not the way to 
go. I used to do that and had trouble. Since then, I have learned that the 
porous brass bushing should be placed on your thumb, filled with 30wt and 
squeezed with your forefinger.  When the oil comes out the external pores of the 
bushing, the bushing is filled and ready for use.

2) Actual cable movement at the end of the cable is critical.  In LM cars, 
which use a similar clutch system, the bell crank has to start a certain 
distance off of the trans support or there won't be enough throw.  I did the math and 
the throw difference between the wrong and right  is only .060"!  What this 
says to me is that there can't be any "lost motion" in your cable or the clutch 
won't operate properly.  GB cable housings are known to stretch under 
pressure and are subjuect to inner lining wear that contributes to lost motion as 
well. 

Here's what I would do: If you can obtain proper release when the cable 
starting adjustment is "tight" (zero or less than zero free play) I would lean 
towards a cable problem.  If the clutch does not release with the starting 
adjustment at zero free-play or less, I would lean towards an internal clutch problem.

As others have mentioned, the main internal points to check are:
Pressure plate: diaphragm spring not warped (even fingers), drive springs not 
cracked
Disc: not over .330 thick, (.305 compressed), not "fuzzy", slides well on 
input shaft
Snout: Not cracked, lubed T/O slides well over entire range
Pilot: Not tight, properly lubed

Craig Nicol
65,66,67  3,2,4 drs 



<snip>Well, if the cable is moving about 1 inch back at the clutch rod, then 
that
would rule out the cable itself.  If the pressure plate is in good condition
with no broken parts then that pretty much rules that out. It could very
well be the pilot bushing.  Have you tried another one yet?  There are
several schools of thought on lubing the pilot bushing too.  Some say to
soak in oil or force oil into it.  I use a small dab of white lithium grease
behind the pilot bushing and a very thin film to start out with on the end
of the input shaft.  Before I had done too many clutch jobs I used general
purpose grease and had problems with it gumming up and sticking.  It was
worse after it heated up and would do what you describe. You said the clutch
disc itself is clean so that rules that out. Its not likely to be an endplay
problem in the crankshaft because I had a crankshaft with over twice the max
endplay and the clutch worked fine.
I would guess at this point that it is either the pilot bushing or the cable
is just not moving enough back at the clutch rod.  The lengthening of the
clutch pedal should just about rule the cable but you could measure it since
it is easier than pulling the engine again to get at the pilot bushing.
Sure sounds like something heating up though like the problem I had with the
pilot bushing and lube. Dan Kling <unsnip>