<VV> Unsolvable Clutch Problem in my FC

[BobHelt@aol.com]

Hi Charles,
I'll take another stab at this. I hope that I can help. Please see below for 
my comments.
Regards,
Bob Helt



In a message dated 8/3/04 8:41:07 PM US Mountain Standard Time, 
greenbriergoon@hotmail.com writes:

> 
> I removed the drivetrain and replaced the new T/O bearing with an NOS one.  
> The new one was shorter, even though it is what all of the vendors are 
> currently selling as a replacement for 1963 and older models.  The NOS one 
> is the correct 1 7/8 inch height.  I also checked to make that no oil had 
> gotten on the disc.  It was clean.
> 
> Still no sucess.


I have come to believe that the length of the T/O bearing is not all that 
important. That's because the important thing is for the bearing to be completely 
free of the PP when disengaged and also have enough movement to release the 
PP. 

A test of this can be performed with the powertrain in the car by 
disconnecting the rod (or cable) from the fork and using a temp installed rod (if it was 
a cable) to allow you to climb under and pull on the rod connected to the 
clutch fork. First, move the rod in and out without depressing the PP and 
determine that there is some free play. That will mean there is room to have the 
clutch engaged. Next pull hard on the rod with your feet braced and determine that 
the PP actually depresses all rhe way. This will be a felt snap or bump as you 
depress the PP. There should be a solid bottom when you pull the rod all the 
way it will go.

If all that works OK, the clutch itself should all be good. All you need is 
enough movement from the pedal.


> 
> Someone recommended lengthening the clutch pedal to get more pull on the 
> cable.  I did this.  At first I thought it solved the problem.  It shifted 
> through the gears smoothly.  I went about 1/2 of a mile from my home, pulled 
> 
> into a driveway, shifted into reverse and it grinded into the gear.  Tried 
> getting into first and it grinded again.


This sounds to me like your clutch cable is stretching. Are you sure it's a 
good one? and solidly mounted? Use a ruler (scale) to determine the amount of 
movement when an assistant depresses the pedal (with all things hooked up). 
Other posts state about 7/8 inches movement as I remember. Compare that movement 
with the cable connected to the amount of movement you got when you did it by 
pulling on the rod. Is it the same? Again I suspect a bad cable.


> 
> I don't know what else could be causing the problem.  Could a problem with 
> the pilot bushing cause this?  It's a new pilot bushing and an NOS input 
> shaft.

It is very unlikely this is a bad pilot bearing.


> 
> I am at my wits end.  I really need to get this thing working.  I am 
> planning on moving soon and this project is holding everything up.  If I 
> can't solve this thing soon I am going to have to scrap the whole thing.

Try what I recommended. Are there any club members who can come by and offer 
suggestioms and opinions?

Regards,
Bob Helt


> 
> Charles