<VV> Rust

J R Read_HML hmlinc@sbcglobal.net
Sun, 11 Apr 2004 15:58:23 -0500


As lclc is known to say, "Rust never rests".  I don't think that a week will
make a noticeable difference.

To my mind, the two most common places would be:

1.  The front quarters (that is two but I'm counting it as one), just below
the Monza emblem.  You need to get to this area by removing the fresh air
vents inside the car and then cleaning out all the munge.  Water is
"supposed to" flow down from the front cowl, pass through this area and then
travel along the inside of the rockers, and dump out just ahead of the rear
wheels.  The munge traps the water and gets the rust going.

2.  The other place that I see commonly rusted (at least on LMs) is the left
rear fender below the battery box and often the battery box itself.  I'm not
sure why this is, except that the original batteries had vent tubes leading
to this area (below the box) and maybe that has something to do with it?

Attachments are scanned with anti-virus software.

Later, JR
'61 Rampside Standard 4/110
'65 Monza Convertible 4/140
'66 beater Coupe - icemobile 4/140

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stephen Upham" <contactsmu@sbcglobal.net>
To: <virtualvairs@corvair.org>
Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2004 2:17 PM
Subject: <VV> Rust


> This message has been sitting on my dock on my iMac for a week or more.
> Sorry that I'm sending it so late.
>
>       I don't have much rust and I want to prevent getting any more.
> Right now, it's parked outside at the home of the mechanic who is
> overhauling the engine.  It has been in the elements since October with
> just a Noah Car Cover.  What are the most common, and perhaps
> overlooked, places where rust can start and what products and
> techniques are best for detecting, treating, and preventing the orange
> monster?
>
> Stephen Upham
> Dallas, Texas
>
> Mid prod. # -1965 Monza sedan 110, Sierra Tan - Saddle, PG, A/C,
> original AM/FM, clock, tint, oil bath air filter, w/ 77K
>
> Corvairum II
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