[FC] Replacing fuel tank 5/16" rubber line....and fuel gauge

[Andrew Sego]

 This is the van that came out of a 10 year hibernation.  After running the van 
on it't first decent trip I discovered that the diaphragm in the fuel pump was 
broken around the rod.  I replaced the pump with a working used Airtex pump that 
I had on hand.  It ran fine after that.  I did not check the fuel pump pressure 
or suction.  I added a fuel filter to the rubber connector above the starter 
when I changed the pump.  It vaporlocks during a post shutdown heatsoak.  

Looks like I need to remove the tank to replace the hose. I'm going to wait to 
drop the tank before I make any decisions on changing pumps. I'm hoping that a 
better rubber connection will fix it. If not, I'm torn between replacing the 
used pump with a new high quality mechanical pump, a backup electric pump, or a 
full time electric pump. If at all possible I'd like to keep the stay with a 
mechanical, but I realize that may not be practical.  I've read thru the Tech 
Guide trying to find causes and solutions for vaporlock.  Adding a return line 
or drilling a vent hole in the web inside the fuel pump are a couple of 
ideas.    Any others?  No clothespins and aluminum foil for me thanks. 



The engine is a 65 110/4/3.27 with a 12 plate oil cooler. The cooler is clean 
and has side shields and the recirculation ducts are blocked off.  The fuel 
lines are well clear of the shrouds.  I still have the lower shrouds on and 
thermostats are functional.  The fresh air hose on the top shroud is good...I do 
not know about the heater in front of that. The perimeter seal is intact and in 
place. The rear seal is not firmly attached because the PO didn't replace the 
retainers with 64 style pieces when they put the LM engine and 64 car hanger in 
there.  The rear seal doesn't have any large gaps in it though.  Timing is set 
at 14 degrees and runs ok.  This engine in this van was installed by a local and 
reputable Corvair repair shop. Considering they went to the trouble of putting a 
12 plate on, I'll assume they also deflashed the heads. I'd have to check once 
the shrouds are off.   I'm looking for other ideas what might be contributing 
factors.


I had vaporlock problems on my first Vair, a 63 102 PG Monza coupe.  For some 
reason it had a 3 plate oil cooler.  After trying many things I finally replaced 
that darned thing and my problem went away for good.  My 64 Monza 95 PG 
vaporlocked several times.  Deflashing the heads and cleaning out the oil cooler 
cured it.   I have .020" over forged piston OT-10 cammed 64 110 engine that is 
being put together now to replace this tired old 110.    I'll also be replacing 
the car 3.27 with a real 64 FC 3.55 differential when the engine is out.  I'd 
like this problem resolved before the new engine is in place.

Thanks for the advice guys!