[FC] Interior Panel insulation
corvanatics@corvair.org
corvanatics@corvair.org
Tue Apr 13 23:13:01 2004
I've used the modified tar/rubber construction waterproofer strips (usually
found near the windows in Home Depot) as a low cost substitute for Dynamat. I
can't tell you it works as well, but it does work, and I think it comes out to
less that a $1 per sqft. I've come across two kinds; one only has removable
plastic film on one side, the other you can peel it off both sides. If you get
the second kind, you can then attach thin closed cell foam rubber or other
material to the already sticky tar-like material. The way the modified rubber
stuff works to stop sound is to keep the sheet metal panel from reverberating. I
don't think it does much to stop sound waves that are already in the air (i.e.;
road and engine noise would be reduced, but someone honking at you wouldn't
be deadened as much). That's where you add the foam rubber.
I've done some sound insulation in buildings for music rehearsal space,
and I'm sure that the principle is the same; use sound absorbing material
between the source of the sound and the wall, and don't let anything "hard" (wood,
metal, etc.) touch anything "hard" between the sound absorber and the wall.
That would let the sound waves travel through the sound absorber and the wall.
You can use rubber washers to isolate metal from metal if possible. I went to
great lengths to isolate my engine cover from the body in My Greenbrier, as well
as the Tranny cover. I also used that foil covered insulation material (like
for hot water heaters) underneath covers with excellent results. It's nice to
have a waterproof insulation that you can hose off if you like (make sure to
seal all the edges with stainless steel tape).